Tariffs and the Shop Floor

A former garment worker reflects on rank-and-file agitation in the US garment industry just before the industry fled the country.

Garment Workers

Garment workers use sewing machines at a textile facility in New York City in 1975. (Brownie Harris / Corbis via Getty Images)


Tariffs are a national conversation with shifting edicts coming almost daily from the White House. Pundits, free trade “globalists,” and MAGA nationalists contend full-time on cable television. The debate extends to the labor movement, with United Auto Workers president Shawn Fain supporting Donald Trump’s tariffs in the auto industry while opposing the rest of the MAGA agenda.

My own experience in the men’s clothing industry in the 1970s sheds some light on this issue. In this decade, I was a presser in a large suit shop, active in a broad-based union rank-and-file movement, and a member of the Philadelphia Workers Organizing Committee (PWOC), part of the New Communist Movement.

The garment industry was one of the most protected by tariffs in the nation. The union in men’s clothing, the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America (ACWA), joined the employers in lobbying for tariffs and ran its own “Buy American” campaign aimed at consumers. Such collaboration had a long history. By establishing a floor for wages and working conditions, the union had been a source of stability in a labor-intensive industry dominated by small shops and intense competition, a fact that the employers came to appreciate.

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