What We Talk About When We Talk About Food
By some measures, the food influencer and wellness economy is worth over $7 trillion. In All Consuming, Ruby Tandoh traces the rise of this industry and asks how food became both a status symbol and a source of fantasy.

Food, much like clothing, is a way of signaling who you are and who you want to be. All Consuming, a new book by the journalist Ruby Tandoh, looks at the development of taste in our hyper-capitalist food industry and influencer economy. (Photo Media / ClassicStock via Getty Images)
Out of the dieting craze came the more profitable culture of wellness. Today, the wellness industry is worth around $7 trillion, more than twice the GDP of France. Wellness is easier to capitalize on than its predecessor. Rather than scolding people into consuming less, it turns a desire for thinness, health, and control into a need for more buzzword-laden products and commodities that tell us that we are healthy, good, conscientious, and clean.
Unique to our time is the sheer volume of images through which such neurotic ideas about food are conveyed and exploited. The internet manufactures a seemingly endless stream of meals to be cooked, products to buy, lifestyles to emulate. Conveniently for the companies getting rich off this stuff, it can feel like the products we consume reflect something about the reality of who we are, even if our consumption of them is primarily visual.
These decisions are often mere projection, ideation without consummation. Images exist and reconfigure themselves in a cycle that perpetuates seemingly endless need. The aims of the low-end of this content industry — with its crackly chocolate bars and orange-hued ingredients that stretch, melt, and fizzle to produce an algorithmically perfected appeal — are often straightforward: buy this, crave that, share a video. The goals of the rest of it — from the slow cooking videos on a backdrop of a nondescript “farm,” to the high-end, art-coded content, like Titanic-length raspberry ladyfinger cake for Hermes — are more abstract.